Tuesday, 15 October 2013

Planning for yet another corset

The edwardian corset just finished was my second corset ever and the improvement from the first one is substantial. Next on my list is a victorian corset to go under a future bustle dress. Since the victorian corset has the silhouette that most modern ones are based on it probably wouldn't be too hard to find a finished pattern to use. But why make it simple? A challenge is always fun and historical accuracy is something we aim for. So why not use an original pattern?

I went to this website with original pages from an old fashion magazine from the Netherlands. In 1884 they included the pattern to a corset I would very much like to recreate:

I like the overall look of it, and especially the gores. It would be interesting to see if it is physically possible for me to reduce my waist (my previous corsets suggest otherwise) and for that I have understood that space for the bust and the hips is essential.

I found the pattern and went ahead to make a small paper mock up. Here it is seen from the side and I must say that I am absolutely digging the curves. The pieces suggest that there is seam allowance added to them. It is not easy to make sense of it all when the instructions are to small to read and in dutch. So to scale it up will prove difficult.

This is the fabric that will be used. It is the same herringbone coutil as in the edwardian corset but dyed burgundy. I have no idea if this colour is historically accurate, but lately I have had a thing for it.

There are a lot of questions when dealing with this corset. How much seam allowance is added? How will I scale it up, are all the bones marked on the pattern, will I make single or double layer? As soon as my exams are over with I am going to find out.

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